Loopback cotton and fleece are the two fabrics behind most sweatshirts and hoodies, and they start from the same place: a knit with a smooth face and small loops on the reverse. The difference lies in what happens to those loops. In loopback they are left intact; in fleece they are brushed until they become soft and fluffy.

That single finishing step changes how the fabric feels, how warm it is, how it breathes and how it ages. This guide explains the differences and helps you choose.

What is loopback cotton?

Loopback cotton, often called French terry, is a knitted fabric with a flat face and rows of small, even loops on the back. The loops add bulk and absorbency while keeping the fabric light on the skin.

Because the loops are left as they are, loopback has a clean, structured feel. It keeps its shape well, breathes easily and tends to resist pilling. Good loopback softens with every wash rather than wearing thin.

What is fleece?

Fleece, or brushed-back fabric, starts as the same looped knit. The loops are then brushed with fine wire rollers, which break and raise the fibres into a soft, napped surface.

The raised fibres trap more air, so fleece feels warmer and plusher straight away. The trade-off is that brushing loosens fibres, so lower-quality fleece can pill or shed more over time.

Loopback versus fleece at a glance

• Warmth: fleece is generally warmer at the same weight; loopback is better for layering and milder days.
• Breathability: loopback breathes more easily, making it comfortable across a wider range of temperatures.
• Feel: fleece is plush and fluffy inside; loopback is smoother and more structured.
• Durability: loopback usually resists pilling better; fleece quality depends heavily on fibre and finishing.
• Look: loopback holds a cleaner, sharper shape; fleece looks softer and more relaxed.

Why fabric quality matters more than the type

Both fabrics can be excellent or disappointing depending on the cotton used, how tightly it is knitted and how it is finished. A dense loopback made from long fibres will outlast a loose one many times over. That is why the origin of the fabric matters as much as its name. We source most of our fabrics from Italian mills, and we explain why in why we source our fabrics from Italian mills.

Weight matters too. If you want to compare fabrics by density, our guide on what GSM means in clothing explains how to read the numbers.

Loopback at Parhela

Our flagship fabric is an Italian loopback cotton that perfectly balances softness and strength. It is used across several of our most worn pieces:

• The Staple Collection, a hoodie, sweatshirt and bottoms in 345 GSM loopback, designed to mix and match into full tracksuit sets.
• The Wild Window Hoodie and Wild Window Sweatshirt, each embroidered on the back with a watering hole scene of 227,000 threads.
• The Snoodie, cut from a 375 GSM loopback that was the finest quality we could find after almost a year of fabric exploration around Italy.

Fleece at Parhela

When we want plushness above all, we turn to fleece. The Breton is a celebration of texture: a super plush 330 GSM Italian cotton fleece from one of the most renowned mills in Italy, made to be worn both in and outdoors.

And towelling?

Towelling, or terry cloth, is a close cousin. Its loops are longer and often appear on both sides, which makes it highly absorbent and gives it a distinctive texture. Our Terry Shorts use a 340 GSM Italian towelling from the same historic mill as the Snoodie and the Breton.

Which should you choose?

Choose loopback if

• you want one piece to wear through most of the year;
• you like a structured, clean silhouette;
• you run warm or plan to layer under a coat.

Choose fleece if

• warmth and plush comfort are your priority;
• you want a cosy piece for colder days;
• you prefer a softer, more relaxed look.

Many people keep one of each: a loopback hoodie or sweatshirt for everyday wear and a fleece for the coldest weeks. Browse both in our jumpers and hoodies.

How to care for loopback and fleece

Both fabrics last longer with gentle care. Always follow the care label first. Wash at a low temperature, inside out, with similar colours. Avoid fabric softener on fleece, which can flatten the nap, and skip the tumble dryer where possible: drying flat keeps loopback in shape and stops fleece from matting.

In short

Loopback cotton and fleece share the same looped knit. Loopback leaves the loops intact for a structured, breathable, durable fabric; fleece brushes them into a plush, warmer nap that needs a little more care. At Parhela, our Italian loopback is used for the Staple Collection, the Wild Window pieces and the Snoodie, while the Breton is our plush Italian fleece. To see how these fabrics fit into an everyday wardrobe, read what is lifestyle-wear.