Knowing how to wash wool and cashmere properly is the difference between a jumper that lasts a decade and one that shrinks after a single wash. These natural fibres are resilient, often more so than people think, but they react badly to heat, friction and harsh detergents. Treat them well and they reward you with years of warmth and softness.

This guide covers washing, drying, de-pilling and storage, with tips for each type of wool piece.

Why wool needs special care

Wool and cashmere fibres are covered in tiny scales. When they are exposed to heat, moisture and agitation at the same time, those scales lock together and the fibres shrink and harden, a process called felting. That is why a hot, fast machine wash can turn a jumper into a child's size.

The good news is that wool is naturally odour-resistant and dirt-repellent, so it needs washing far less often than cotton.

Step one: check the label

Always start with the care label. Some pieces, especially tailored coats, lined garments and textured fabrics, should be professionally cleaned. Others can be washed gently at home. When in doubt, choose the gentler option.

How often should you wash wool?

Less often than you think. In most cases, airing a jumper overnight after wearing is enough to refresh it. Wash only when it is visibly marked or no longer smells fresh, often every five to ten wears for a jumper worn over another layer.

How to hand wash wool and cashmere

1. Use cool water. Fill a basin with cool or lukewarm water, never hot.
2. Choose a wool detergent. Use a gentle, pH-neutral detergent made for wool or delicates. Avoid biological detergents, which can damage protein fibres.
3. Soak, do not scrub. Submerge the piece and press it gently. Let it soak for around ten minutes.
4. Rinse in the same temperature. Sudden temperature changes encourage felting.
5. Never wring. Press out water gently, then roll the piece in a clean towel to absorb the rest.

Can you machine wash wool?

Only if the label allows it. If it does, use the wool or hand-wash programme, cold water, the lowest spin and a mesh bag to reduce friction.

How to dry wool

• Dry flat. Lay the piece on a towel or drying rack and reshape it while damp.
• Avoid heat. Keep it away from radiators, direct sunlight and, above all, the tumble dryer.
• Do not hang wet knitwear. The weight of the water stretches the shoulders and length.

How to remove pilling

Pilling happens when loose fibres rub together and form small balls, usually under the arms and where a bag strap sits. It is normal, especially on softer fibres like cashmere, and it often slows down after the first few wears. Remove pills gently with a cashmere comb or a fabric shaver, working on a flat surface.

How to store wool and cashmere

• Fold, do not hang. Hanging knitwear for long periods pulls it out of shape.
• Store clean. Moths are attracted to body oils and food residue, so wash or air pieces before putting them away.
• Protect against moths. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets help, and breathable cotton storage bags keep pieces safe through summer.
• Give pieces room. Avoid packing knitwear tightly, which crushes fibres.

Caring for different wool pieces

Jacquard knitwear

Our Minoan Jumper is a jacquard weave on fine 100% Italian wool, inspired by the Marine Style pottery of Bronze Age Crete. Woven patterns like this keep their definition best when washed cold and dried flat.

Wool and cashmere scarves

The Hand Finished Scarf is cut from an Italian fabric of 90% wool and 10% cashmere, with every edge sewn by hand. Hand wash it gently, press out the water and dry it flat to protect the edges.

Blends with cashmere

The Cappuccino Jumper uses a lightweight cotton, cashmere and wool blend developed with one of Italy's oldest mills. Blends combine the softness of cashmere with the structure of cotton, and they benefit from the same gentle care.

Needle punch and tailored wool

Our Celestial pieces use a needle punched Italian wool blend, several of them lined in silk, and the overcoat is built with traditional tailoring. Pieces like these should be cleaned as their care labels advise. Read more about the fabric in our guide to needle punch fabric.

Wool outerwear

The Woolcraft Vest, in an ultra-premium cashmere wool mix, and other wool outer layers rarely need washing. Brush them after wear, air them and spot clean small marks.

Why caring for wool matters

Good care is one of the simplest ways to make a wardrobe last. A well-kept wool jumper can stay in rotation for many years, which is the idea behind building a smaller, better wardrobe. Our guide to building a capsule wardrobe explores that approach, and you can browse our knitwear in sweatshirts and jumpers.

In short

To wash wool and cashmere, check the label, wash rarely, use cool water and a wool detergent, never wring and always dry flat away from heat. Remove pills with a comb, fold knitwear rather than hanging it and store it clean with cedar or lavender to deter moths. Treated this way, pieces like the Minoan Jumper or the Hand Finished Scarf will stay soft and in shape for years. For silk pieces, see our companion guide on how to wash a silk shirt.